matti's dress journal

Pair of bodies? + other ID3 stuff/thoughts

2009-07-11T17:29:33Z

Yes, that's what I feel like sometimes...

Okay, hacking away at fabric.

...and I made (shyguyinmi take) a pic of me in my existing hat:

...which leads me to the accessories I was considering...

Would a matching caul in the green be weird?
Or maybe in the embroidered darker green...
...which I didn't color-correct...

The white bolt of fabric above is a quilter's sateen, which is stable enough to flatline and use as the lining fabric for the aforementioned pair of bodies. While, like a pair of pants, is one piece of garment.

Going back to the sewing before I completely lose my grasp of my native tongue...

Iron Dress 3 Plans

2009-07-11T14:58:59Z

First, the contest, for those that don't know about it: http://www.margospatterns.com/Extras/gallery/ID2009rules.html

Fabrics:

All the following are images from Margo's Patterns, edited to show my choices...

Underlayer:

I'm going to make the sleeves green.

Middle layer:
</a>
Corset and front panel from the green.

Outer layer:

The outer layer will be the diamond fabric, and the sleeve under the loose sleeve will be, I hope, the green sleeve of the smock.

I am going to make a fitting muslin of the pair of bodies in Size 18 (bust). My measurements say my waist is Size 26. I'm going to see how the corset feels at 18. It could well be ok. I know that this is sorta contrary to the Eliz ideal of fitting, not serious figure modification, but this is intended for faire wear.

UPDATE: I already created the pattern merging 18 top with 26 waist. Okay, I'll use that. Nevermind.

Thoughts? Input welcomed, even if I don't necessarily DO the suggested things. I love seeing how other people wrap their brains around ideas!

Progress

2009-04-29T19:25:07Z

Had the final fitting yesterday!

What you don't see in this picture: the top and bottom edges are unfinished, and the lacing is done with lacing strips that I basted in. I've marked three spots on the outer shell that need to be adjusted, and the top and bottom edges have also been marked for some fine-tuning.

Since, I've gone back in and finished the shell alterations and serged the alterations so they don't fray apart. I've also messed with the back edges 3x, and am finally happy and they are bound with bias tape. Bottom has a line of stitching to follow with the bias tape. Oh, and removed the lacing strips (duh).

Okay, while I'm awaiting the setting tool, I have the following tasks left:

- stitch "sleeves" for the lacing bones and insert them -- I'm thinking between the cotton layers
- stitch the top layers together a la the bottom
- bias-bind the top and bottom
- while binding the top, add a cord to allow lilith79 to tie a cute little bow and tweak up the top fit while wearing
- add trim to the top and bottom

Hmm. That's not bad. Once the setting tool arrives, that will be the last step.

Like

Viccy Corset Progress

2009-04-24T17:00:10Z

Okay, a glitch in the really fast plan is availability of the customer!! However, progress has been made...

- I mentioned that I traced off the pattern and made a toile?
- went off to JoAnn Madison Heights and Haberman to purchase materials -- ended up with lovely designer satin in red for outer shell, and black Kona cotton (on sale! Whee!) for interior construction. Oh! And some pretty lace for final decoration
- fit the toile, added some length, stitched changes, refit, we were both happy
- went off to Haberman for boning, where ravenessdotcom assisted with boning purchase decisions! We loves her.
- modified the paper pattern to match the modified toile
- washed the Kona cotton just because
- have marked and cut out two layers of Kona for interior
- lilith79 ordered and recieved a front busk, some lacing bones, and lacing

Today and tomorrow:

- I plan to serge around each interior piece, leaving the bottom open for final evening-up
- put together the interior and place boning channels and boning
- draft and make a big, wide modesty panel, as I and ravenessdotcom agreed that too much room in the back is far better than too little -- delightfully, lilith79 is kinda squishy, so much of the extra "gap" may well vanish. I want her to have enough gap to allow for (a) pretty and (b) potential change-of-body-shape. A corset for one wearing will be Stupid, IMO.
- I'm waiting to cut into the satin until I do a final fit on the interior. Cause I'm askeered.

Say, my plan is to secure the front busk by sewing together the interior and exterior layers. Wait, that sounds dumb as I write it. Next idea: make two front double pieces, secure the busk by stitching the two doubled pieces together with appropriate gaps, fold the second double-layer to the inside of the garment, top stitch it down, and then attach the Pretty Satin over the busk, but not securing it.

Did that make any sense? I can make pictures.

Speaking of pictures, does any body want any of the progress?

OT for me: Victorian Corset

2009-04-11T13:46:35Z

So, someone enlisted my assistance in making a Viccy-style corset. I'm going to use this Simplicity pattern -- I seem to remember that Martha McCain's instructions/patterns don't suck. The fabulous Farthingales' lady has assembly instructions, so I'll refer to those. Finally, I'm aware that all pieces will be slashed for sizing the lady I'm working with. I will also be transferring the pattern pieces to bond paper, because that's how I roll. No, seriously, I'm just comfortable working that way.

So, I started:

Ideally, this will be a fast, fast piece, so I'll try to remember to update. Note the surveying cat in the upper-righthand corner of the image. L-R is back-front. Off to trace...

Helena Snakenborg Dress

2009-04-04T00:55:22Z

Well, after pondering and looking, and getting the go-ahead from Fiore and reading the comments from sstormwatch, I think I'll tackle (in theory) the Helena dress first. I wanna do the lovely Italian Ren, but I think I can produce the Helena dress sooner.

- My friend kylee is pondering the chemise embroidery
- is the hat fur? and are those gemmed bezants? Maybe gemmed buttons? The brooch above her ear confuses me, too (oh, wait, see the quote in the Sapphire & Sage catalog, where they have jewelry, too...)
- so, obviously, I gotta make ruffs. Little tiny double ruffs
- the dress will be a modified Margo, I think
- I'm fascinated by the sleeve caps -- the puffs look almost folded, and the edge is Really Freaking Cool
- at the neck of the shirt/chemise, it looks like a tiny gold string/trim along the base and top of the collar, it looks like the same treatment, but much smaller at the wrists. Perhaps this would work? And this for the top and center edges?
- So, since Sapphire & Sage has the chain, when will she work on the rest of the set? What's the ribbon-y thing? What does it represent? Any ideas on the ring and the girdle, folks?
- The bands look like they are sorta cutwork-y. Does that make sense?

I'm leaning more towards look than authentic construction. Since trim vendors are much better than I am at making trim-looking things, I'm using their expertise. I am, however, open to persuasion to the dark side of authenticity. I'm a sick woman this way. I know this about myself.

Continuing to think...

Pretty New Dress Thoughts

2009-03-16T16:58:45Z

So, I fell off the planet, sewing-wise. I got to spend yesterday afternoon with Michelle-whose-LJ-handle-I've-forgotten. Friend this journal, honey, so I don't feel like an idiot next time.

We looked through books -- QEWU, Fashion In Costume 1200-1980 (Joan Nunn), Köhler's "A History of Costume", "Blackwork Embroidery" (Geddes/McNeill). While I at it, can I get some groupthink on the Nunn and Köhler books? I seem to recall that they have... drawbacks, but aren't completely off-base.

We also browsed online -- going to go to my IE History and paste links:

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/
http://www.cardinal-creations.com/renaissance.htm
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/cording/cord.html
http://insaneaboutgarb.com/saianotes.html

These are all sites by people I know, if only virtually, and respect. Friend loved Kerri's dress and she's right -- it will look lovely on her. She dislikes hats for some reason, and part of my steering her to Italian is to cater to that. I can't figure out why Kerri's fabulous fabric looks a bit ho-hum in the picture. Stupid cameras. I can tell from reading the text that the fabric is drop-dead gorgeous.

Naturally, in the course of seeing garb my friend liked, I saw stuff I want to make for myself:

To save bandwidth for them, I'm saving piccies I like and crediting them -- if anyone referred to would prefer a link, please let me know, and I will change it as soon as I can (which may not be immediately). (Or linking. Apparently, I'm inconsistent. Go figure.)

(1)
from http://realify.com/~lhb/helena_snakenborg.jpg

(2) Fiore's feature on Realm of Venus. I love this so much I e-mailed to ask if I can just make it like she did with my own feeble talents. Awaiting reply with bated breath...

(3) On Alaina's site, I saw a dress I've been obsessed with...

from Alaina's superb http://insaneaboutgarb.com/saianotes.html

I love these three dresses, and think I'd look good in them I've taken pics of me for thoughts and calculation. These were shot by shyguyinmi earlier today. Please ignore my enormous ass.

front, back, and headshot

Thoughts, feedback, fabric donations, offers to assist me? I'm really only serious about the first two. The second two are just wishful thinking.

Pink Gingham Dress...

2007-09-29T23:47:46Z

...is simply too darned cute for speech. It's, like, Hello-Kitty-cute.

Off to make skirt.

"Irish" Dress & Possible 1495 Veneitian

2007-09-28T14:24:16Z

Working on the pink gingham dress! Interior structure done, and I'm making a green underskirt with two tablecloths purchased from Tuesday Morning when redkendrad worked there.

Realized that the green underskirt could go under this dress at realm_of_venus' fabulous site.

I am soliciting construction ideas for this dress. What I see:

- a red velvet over dress with pearls and gold stitching around the neck line. Also has horizontal slashes at the mid-sleeve at about bicep level.
- a camicia with a black? velvet border at the neck and abundant sleeves for pull-out fabric at shoulder and elbow
- underdress that may be sleeveless and have the border I see at the front neckline
- 2-piece tie-on sleeves in black velvet
- headdress baffles me slightly. One or two pieces? Etc. enh?
- thin leather belt

re: headdress -- I have short hair -- slick it back and attach hair so it hangs like the portrai?
re: underdress. I know of no evidence for separate skirts, but could I wear the green brocade skirt to get the look?

Also, I'm not skinny. Can I carry off this reproduction? Seriously.

Bodice, con't

2007-06-24T02:40:11Z

The bodice is nearly done.

I ~~remembered~~ discovered that the reason that I stopped work on it was because I ran out of bias tape and the color no longer actually existed. Well, it may exist, but wasn't distributed to JAF for me to purchase. I changed to a wide single-fold canary bias that I have -- more of a Kodakchrome-box-yellow -- and was able to finish all three pieces by machine. Technically, it is reversible, but I'm leaning towards not-reversible...

...because I went to Hell and found these -- omg. So cute.

Also, I have a sneaky feeling that I made two left or two right straps (depending on which way you look at them). I think I need to rip one apart and re-do. Sigh.

Rennie Bodice

2007-06-22T22:19:22Z

So, I'm copying a commercial bodice. This is my experiement to see if I can do all construction with my mechanical servants (sewing machine and the fabulous serger), barring eyelets.

So far, so good... but I've learned that serging the ends of the boning into the edge seams slows the process down.

More news from the front shortly.

New Busk

2006-10-10T16:27:15Z

Okay, actually went to HD to get a large paint stirring stick and more washers. The washers were $.84 and the stir was free.

I'm a bit worried about the thickness of the busk. Also, I do need to shape it smaller...

...'cause it's a bit long. Also, it's 1/4" thick. Is this too thick? Will I damage myself wearing it, and will it poke out too much, making a large, unsightly bump?

Okay. More eyelets. Oh, wait! Food first. Then eyelets.

Chopping Along

2006-10-10T01:51:12Z

Here's the eyelets nearly finished:

I do, in fact, need more washers. Tomorrow, I think. I was going to go out tonight, but I'm too sleepy and don't trust me or the wonder van to make the trip to HD.

Eyelets, Again

2006-10-09T19:40:41Z

So, I have the eyelets done on one side, and I realized yesterday that there are 13 eyelets to a side (14 wouldn't hurt, actually), and the washers I bought come -- wait for it...

25/pack. So I'm at least one short, and possibly three if I decide to add a 14th on each side. Off to run errands, including a stop at the fabulous Home Depot for more ~~eyelets~~ washers and a longer paint stir to use as a busk, per lisette_1528's wise counsel.

3:35 pm: back home. No check cashing possible (partially credit union service center, partially Columbus Day), so no more washers right now and no busk, as I was too cranky to be nice to the Home Depot paint people, and it would not be fair to be cranky to them. They're nearly always really helpful. Grr. Back to eyelets until I run out of washers. Yes, I could make them w/o the washers, but I want them to be consistent. I'll see if I care later...

Eyelets In Progress

2006-10-08T22:07:57Z

Et voila. Quick and dirty eyelets:

Eyelets & Busk

2006-10-08T20:20:18Z

Hey, does anyone know if the busk going to the waistline will work? (Actually, it seems like the only way it WILL work, but I'm picking brains instead of re-researching the thought.) The "busk" I have (paint stick from Meijer) just reaches the top of the slashes for the tabs:

Got washers for eyelets -- 1.29+MI sales tax. Sewing those and watching the TNT Law & Order: SVU marathon. Here's the first one and the other floss I'm using -- the colors are to match the machine embroidery scavenged from the kiddie jumper that I have along the top of the corset: lavender, orange, yellow, pink. All the colors are simply wrong in this image -- the first eyelet is lavender.

Coset Progress Pix

2006-10-08T16:05:11Z

Hey, I should really sew the tabs...

Plastic bone ends being blunted with flame

Working out the front bones

Onward!

2006-10-08T14:07:11Z

I realize that I'm posting constnatly, but it's keeping me focused. Time for clothing, food, coffee, then boning & channels! Go, Matti, go!

Off To Meijer...

2006-10-08T00:55:13Z

'Cause I couldn't find my tin snips to cut the boning. Does tool purchase count towards my $25?

LOVE the new ones, however. They cut the duct ties like buttah. When I FIND the old tin snips, they may well be history or given to someone who can/wants to sharpen them.

Ate dinner. Watched TV. Going to bed, will rejoin the fight tomorrow.

Oops

2006-10-07T20:36:56Z

The instructions have me putting the facing and the outer fabric together separately. Of course, I instinctively put the thing together like faced fabric. Bother. Well, if it's too uncomfortable at the seams, I'll stitch some bias tape or ribbon over them.

Found the iron! Also, cut out the pieces of the corset.

Here's the patterns, before tracing and merging.

The pillow sham that was in the rag/donation bag. Now, it's lining. Sat in front of the computer, listened to Michigan Radio online, and ripped and snipped this down to fabric.

The front, when I finished cobbling together bits of denim...

I took a picture of the front and the inside of the left back (misnamed the pic)

The front and the back right (also misnamed this image)

Yay. I Just Moved.

2006-10-07T20:03:49Z

Just spent an annoyingly long time looking for my iron. Anyway. About to iron the seams on the corset that join the side back to the back...

Onward.

Progress on corset

2006-10-07T16:03:15Z

I'm a 26 at the waist and an 18 at the bust. Of course.

I traced off the side back and front pieces, and blended them. I'm using the already-traced-ages-ago 18 back and straps, as the strap is the strap (duh), and the back waist isn't too far off (seemingly nearly the same) in the two sizes.

Side back cut out of the daisy tiny dress, and working on cutting the embroidered-bottom dress and adding bits to it for the front. More soon!

Yup, I'm Insane

2006-10-07T14:28:16Z

[Error: Irreparable invalid markup ('<a [...] ?>') in entry. Owner must fix manually. Raw contents below.]

Okay. It's 8:55 am on October 7, I am fully moved, and NOW I've decided to get rolling on my ID entry.

This may not work. This may be an exercise in futility. Okay. I accept that.

Here's a <lj-cut text="picture of the denim that is becoming a corset">
(okay, first there was a hunt for the data cable. Long, stupid, and it's now 9:20. Wait, that took less time than I thought. Whew.)
<A href="about:blank<a%20href=" target=_blank http: photobucket.com ?><IMG alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting" src="http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d105/matticrafts/Iron%20Dress/denim1.jpg" border=0></A>
</A>

Feedback?

2006-08-20T14:43:34Z

Alrighty -- this dress is not not not going to be historically-based in any way. The pattern is historical, but the dress -- nope. Not in the slightest.

I realize that in a perfect world, the dress would have a corset underneath.

Weirdly, I just can't seem to get motivated on that part. I am also probably moving next month. Of course I am. I'm in a dress competition. Naturally a need to move arose.

I have not even touched my fabric.

I think I need to simply accept that I am building this dress with a self-supporting bodice. Period. If I do that, I may actually get my ass in gear.

Thoughts? Am I simply SATANIC for considering this? I can't seem to START, and HELLO -- it's AUGUST already!

Trims

2006-07-19T19:27:45Z

So, I remembered today that about 5-6 years ago I purchased an entire bolt of eyelet trim with hearts on it for this dress.

Can I find it now? No, of course not. Bother.