Need Feedback re: back lining
mattidress
So, help, ma peeps. The outside of the back looks terrific. I somehow thought I would pin the inside back lining back in place, whipstitch, and Bob's your uncle. Well, no. Here's two images: one of what the lining is now going over, one of the lining kind of in place. I thought of trimming out, adding a baby gore, something else that I haven't invented yet. I decided to tap the communal brain. Help! No idea discounted. Silliness encouraged.


Progress: Back Skirting
mattidress
Continuing to work on the pirate coat over the past week-ish. Here’s some notes…

(note: I was trying to write this online (several times), I failed. This is actually from a couple of weeks ago, and will be posted as soon as I finish writing the blessed thing in Word.)

I have made some very fun progress this weekend [two weeks ago. Shhhh.]. I was thinking that I didn't get much done, and then I looked at last week's post. So, progress:

I switched to the skirting, as the collar is done and the skirting is the largest cut that needed to be cut out of the fabric.


The above pictures are the velvet shell opened up and both layers opened up. Ignore mess. I'm sewing instead of doing much else with my free time except watching Glee.

Next, I had to drape the skirt. Here's a blurry image of the exquisite fabric I used for the draping muslin:

Said exquisite fabric is from an elderly pillowcase.

The three layers of the skirting going together:

Finished skirting insert:
    
Pinned in                                             Stitched in

At this point, I realized that the silly thing wouldn’t look right unless I stitched along each new velvet-to-skirt layer (i.e., along the edges of the vent).  I also realized that adding a line of stitching would look un-pretty to my eye. I remembered something I saw in Thread about picking in a zipper using a lovely beading technique. Let’s see if I can find it online… A-ha!

Hand-Picked Zipper piece
Susan Khalje. Of course.

I did my own variation, using black beads and not including an actual, you know, zipper. This is me getting started. Ignore fuzz and horrible contrast -- I wanted it to show. Unfortunately, so does everything else. Le sigh.


(yes, I’m aware that I’m really quite mad. Shush.)
If I may say so myself, it looks awesome. Lapels and cuffs next.

Quick Update
mattidress
I don't actually make progress during the work week -- my day job gets my attention M-F. However, I finished hand-casting the inside of the collar, and didn't post piccies. Here you go, my darlings (without and with flash):



My handwork is not bad, but it's certainly not good. It's good enough that I avoid self-loathing...

More Saturday, as I have a skirt to insert in the back seam!

In Which Pirate Coat Mod Problems Surface, and are resolved
mattidress
Yes, it's been a while since I've posted. Meh. Such is life.

I'm determined to get this coat mod done. As I've been working through, I have realized that I'm putting, oh, $400-$600 worth of work (conservatively) into this project. (Translation: don't ask me to do this for YOU unless you are my captain/dear friend/sister/crush object. Combined. No, seriously.) I was quite pointed in wanting to do this, so the recipient may NOT get all guilty on me. Because I'll be sad. No, I will, so STOP THAT. You know ewho you are.

The wanting was mostly on the behalf of Wanting To See If I Could. Turns out, I can. YAY!

Anyway....

Progress continues.

Collar: Finally came to my senses and removed the collar (I'd say "ripped out," but that's sempstress terminology and sounds far more violent than what actually happened).

collar removed 1 photo IMG_20130309_151320_552_zps73fe113e.jpg
This is a picture with the collar removed.

I'm pretty sure I included pictures of the collar in progress, so here it is pinned in:


And sewn in:

So far, looks good, yes? Well, no. I somehow managed to avoid noticing that the original coat closed asymetrically. Wait, you didn't see it either? Here you go:

Now do you see it? See how one side is longer to overlap the other side? Yeah, excellent in an evening coat, not so fabulous in a captain's coat. After a blessedly brief freakout, during which I apparently forgot that I own SCISSORS, I got back to business. What you see in the front-of-sewn-collar image above is that extra bit pinned in while I was coming back to my senses.

Now, sleeves/cuffs. I have some gray velveteen that matches coat in texture and weight AND will be under the big ol' cuffs. so not visible. Here's some pictures of the sleeve exensions during construction:


...it was at this point that I realized that I need to put the pretty fabric on both sides of the visible cuff, and the lining fabric only needs to line the added-velvet part to match the lining inside the currrent piece. Yeah. Oops. That's what I'm doing now, and you can thank me for making this mistake for you. <bowing>

Forward, Into The Breach!
mattidress

I finally figured out something ELSE I was angsting about, but way down underneath. Ready, dear companions? Cutting the pretty fabric.

Also, I didn't like the support-the-collar with interfacing idea. It just icked me out.

Two problems, one solution: mocking up the collar while creating the inner support layer. You know what makes a really sturdy underlayer? Denim. The inside of former jeans is way smoother than the outside, too. Et voila:
Pictures under the cut...Collapse )


Collar vs. Lapel
mattidress
Okay, sometime recently (in the last 2-3 days), I realized that I was making things ridiculously hard for myself. How, you ask?

I was trying to mentally connect/draft the collar and lapel together on the pirate coat mod.

I feel silly now.

Pirate Coat Noodling and Determination (!)
mattidress
So, I'm making my brain get back to sewing. I've been too blue to sew. I didn't realize this until recently. The lapel profile that I'm going for is more straight, not pointy. Here's some pictures:

Straight lapels -- I like the subtle curve against the body, so I'm likely to incorporate that.
 

Pointy lapels -- I like it conceptually, but I don't think that's what EMac and I discussed. So.



Need to poke for some client feedback. Also, am keeping the largest kitchen counter clear for sewing adventures. shyguyinmi, this means you :)

Iron Dress The Forth
mattidress
Really going to try to do this thing this time around! See all my previous blather for deets -- going with the lovely fabric and making underpinnings in advance (after I finish the pirate coat re-make for Ceilidh)(guess what I really need to get motivated to do this weekend?). Okay, just wanted to say this publicly.

Pirate Coat Mod
mattidress
I have a friend who had a fabulous pirate captain persona, and needed a coat. She has a terrific velvet coat and some black/red ecclesiastical fabric . A cunning plan immediately formed...

piccies and plans cut for politesseCollapse )

Pair of bodies? + other ID3 stuff/thoughts
mattidress
Yes, that's what I feel like sometimes...

ANYWAY...Collapse )

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